The first time I lived in Florence, it was in the neighborhood by Santa Croce, on Via Ghibellina before via Ghibellina was quite what it is these days. I remember carrying my suitcase up two flights of stairs in the dark, because I didn't know about timed light switches for condominio stairwells.
The second time I lived in Florence, it was, for a few days, by the Church of Sant'Ambrogio. Federiga's house always smelled a certain kind of clean. There was something about the combination of Florentine water and whatever laundry detergent everyone used those days. There was the smell of that handsoap everybody had, from Neutro Roberts.
There was the smell of the water.
Later there was via Mameli with Lynda and via Mazzini with Rina. Does Campi Bisenzio count?
Everything must count.
Today makes a month that I have lived here, again. I should say we, because it is both of us, all three of us if you include the cat, and you should include the cat, because the cat she is a Tuscan cat, after all.
I should say we but it's different. This is my city more than anyone else's.
Here is where I have been homeless. Here is where I have worked for five euro an hour at an internet café. Here is where I learned the hard way, what you most need to know the congiuntivo for.
Se avessi saputo.
Last week my students read “Roman Hours” by André Aciman (from Susan Cahill's lamentably named The Smiles of Rome). They liked the way Aciman conjures up the souls of the city's palimpsest. The way he makes walking in Rome feel like walking with everyone who has ever loved her:
I like to imagine the ghost of Leopardi, of Henri Beyle (known to the world as Stendhal), of Beatrice Cenci, of Anna Magnani, rising by the deserted corner, each one always willing to stop and greet me, like characters in Dante who have wandered up to the surface and are eager to mingle before ebbing back into the night.
But what if there’s a city in which the souls you keep bumping into and brushing past, the ghosts you keep glimpsing in doorways, across piazzas, around corners, what if they're always and only just versions of you? What if this city is haunted—and by haunted I mean in the sweetest, safest way—by all the selves that you have been here?
Last week I walked into the Church of Sant'Ambrogio for the first time in fourteen years. I don't remember which pew I sat in fourteen years ago. I don't know if there were more people that day. But I felt like I was sitting near myself. I watched time shimmer and I let myself listen to that twenty-six-year-old as she spoke in her head to the universe, saying please let me live here.
There's another bit in Aciman’s essay, where he worries about missing Rome, and all the eternal things that enchant him here – the Caravaggios in San Luigi dei Francesi, the rounded colonnade at Santa Maria della Pace, the ham, the rolls, the knife. It's in the paragraph that begins, “What wouldn't I give never to lose Rome.” It ends like this:
Could any of these timeless things really disappear from my life? And where do they go when I'm not there to stare at them? What happens to life when we're not there to live it?
What happens to life when we are?
[Santo Spirito, Firenze]
[sabato 25 febbraio 2017 ore 23:32:00] [¶]